| Today, Tyler R. Tichelaar of Reader Views is | | | | on the East Coast, marine historians and librarians |
| interviewing Dennis M. Powers, author of "Sentinel of | | | | added to my growing stacks of information. I searched |
| the Seas: Life and Death at the Most Dangerous | | | | for all that I could find about the risky construction and |
| Lighthouse Ever Built." | | | | the station's history. |
| Dennis Powers is an avid historian of nautical life. He is | | | | As with "Treasure Ship", I found the anecdotes from |
| the author of "Treasure Ship" and "The Raging Sea." | | | | those associated with this story to be very interesting |
| His new book, "Sentinel of the Seas," is about | | | | and gave a great balance to the research. Coast |
| lighthouses and more particularly St. George Reef | | | | Guardsmen who lived and operated St. George told |
| Lighthouse located off the California coast. He spent | | | | their tales of what life was actually like. From trying to |
| five years meticulously researching this subject. | | | | survive the tumultuous storms that swept in and |
| Tyler: Hello, Dennis. Thank you for joining me today. I'd | | | | isolated this reef to the antics of young crewmen, the |
| like to start our conversation by asking how you | | | | lives of these keepers were not for the weak of |
| became so interested in writing this particular book. | | | | heart. |
| Dennis: My last book, "Treasure Ship", was about the | | | | I then found and worked in stories about what life was |
| loss, search for, and eventual discovery of the | | | | like on other lighthouses, the courageous accounts of |
| gold-bearing steamer "S.S. Brother Jonathan". In 1865, | | | | the women who ran these sentinels, and the tales of |
| the large sidewheeler struck a seething reef inside | | | | the ghosts that haunted them. |
| Dragon Rocks off the Northern California coast and | | | | Tyler: You mentioned the role of women with |
| sank in forty-five minutes. In the West Coast's then | | | | lighthouses. Could you comment more on this aspect |
| worst maritime accident, 225 people perished in those | | | | of your book? |
| raging waters. Newspapers throughout the country | | | | Dennis: Women lighthouse keepers were far more |
| headlined the news of the great loss and famous | | | | numerous than is commonly known. Where families |
| personalities onboard when that vessel went down. A | | | | were allowed, the wives of keepers always assisted |
| remote lighthouse somehow had to be built and | | | | or took over responsibilities and duties. More than 250 |
| operated there in seas that unexpectedly rose stories | | | | female wickies over time either worked alone running |
| high within short hours. | | | | a station or were officially appointed as an assistant |
| As I researched the stories for "Treasure Ship", I found | | | | keeper with their spouse. |
| myself spending as much time meandering through | | | | The first woman to serve at an American lighthouse |
| whatever files existed about St. George Lighthouse. | | | | was Hannah Thomas, whose career at the |
| This was the distant and dangerous station built in | | | | Massachusetts Gurnet Point Light lasted for ten years |
| response to that tragedy, constructed close to the | | | | from 1776 to 1786. During this time period, she tended |
| disaster site on a desolate wave-washed rock hit by | | | | to four flat-wick lamps, each having four large wicks. |
| the ocean on all sides. I discovered that the stories of | | | | The lamps burned whale oil, which required replenishing |
| courage, hardship, and the changing of eras of both | | | | them up to three times a night, not to mention the daily |
| were intertwined. | | | | wick trimming, cleaning, maintenance, and |
| I became entranced by the stories about the men who | | | | emergencies--every night and day without relief. |
| built and then operated the lighthouse on this | | | | From Katie Walker (Robbins Reef Lighthouse in New |
| dangerous wave-washed spit of rock--and the risks of | | | | York Bay) and Ida Lewis (Lime Rock Lighthouse on |
| the work. The construction was difficult enough, but | | | | Rhode Island) to Harriet Colfax (Lake Michigan) and |
| then it had to be operated and maintained against the | | | | Emily Fish (Point Pinos on the Monterey Peninsula in |
| onslaughts of typhoons and Nor'westers. Marooned | | | | California), many other "keepers in skirts" followed her |
| with other men in tiny rooms for weeks at a time, a | | | | lead in manning lighthouses on both coasts and the |
| keeper had to be mentally strong to overcome the | | | | great lakes. Fascinated by these accounts, I set down |
| close quarters, shrill ear-piercing foghorns, and sense of | | | | their stories in "Sentinel of the Seas". |
| isolation, especially when the whistling winds powered | | | | Tyler: And you included stories about ghosts? |
| the ocean into office-building-high crests that battered | | | | Dennis: Every lighthouse has its own mysteries, |
| the man-made structure and men held captive inside. It | | | | strange stories, and peculiar ghost. No other structure |
| was an easy decision to write "Sentinel of the Seas". | | | | built creates the strange sounds, sights, and |
| Tyler: That certainly is understandable. What an | | | | experiences of a lighthouse, especially when at night |
| exciting if risky life, and you describe it so vividly. Could | | | | on a spiraling spiral staircase, a moaning breeze whirls |
| you describe for us what the construction of the | | | | around ones face and the sounds of the surf crash |
| lighthouse on St. George entailed? | | | | far below. Howling winds in lonely towers next to the |
| Dennis: When Alexander Ballantyne built Tillamook | | | | ocean create weird noises any way, not to mention a |
| Rock Lighthouse, another engineering feat located off | | | | shadowy night with a full moon shining through |
| the Oregon coast, he proved that building on such a | | | | windows and walking alone up a creaking stairwell. |
| challenging site twelve miles from the closest port was | | | | Echoing voices and squeaking window frames, |
| feasible. The U.S. Light-House Board next placed him in | | | | slamming metal doors, flashing lights, and unexplained |
| charge of building St. George. From his diary, detailed | | | | reflections all create their special effects--especially |
| notes, and reports on the construction of these | | | | when isolated for hours in a dark place--even if at first |
| structures, I realized that he was one of the very few | | | | one doesn't believe in ghosts. After reading and writing |
| who was up to such a difficult task--and the hardships | | | | about these stories, it became hard to disbelieve or |
| started at the very beginning. A howling Nor-'wester | | | | explain away "why" they actually happened. |
| with massive waves, shrieking winds, and stinging | | | | Tyler: Is the St. George Reef Lighthouse said to be |
| sheets of spray twice forced the first construction | | | | haunted, and if so, would you provide us with one |
| expedition to turn back to its San Francisco homeport. | | | | story or anecdote about its haunting? |
| After horrifying experiences with more monstrous | | | | Dennis: The stories of ghosts seem to exist at every |
| storms during the first winter, Ballantyne and his crew | | | | lighthouse, and St. George was no exception. Wickies |
| learned to adapt to these deadly forces of nature. | | | | on duty there swore that they heard or saw specters |
| They had to. Each spring, the workers had to rebuild | | | | haunting the dark, wet Medieval-looking tower and |
| what the tumultuous ocean had later wrecked before | | | | desolate reef. One story concerns the soul of one of |
| they could restart construction. Storms and seas | | | | the three Coast Guardsmen who died in a tragic |
| washed men away, whether they were working, | | | | accident at St. George in 1951. A keeper swore that |
| sleeping in quarters eventually built on the rock, or | | | | this specter made his presence known when one of |
| running to avoid rogue waves. From the explosive | | | | the cups in the galley would suddenly start shaking. |
| showering of blasted rock bits and drizzling rains to | | | | The older seaman would then give the young fellows |
| running out of food and drinkable water, the conditions | | | | a hard time. He'd tell them to give the old boy a cup of |
| that these workers endured were hard and terrifying. | | | | coffee. They would watch that cup swing and, |
| Ballantyne and his men had to be inventive in | | | | according to this sailor, "their eyes would get real big." |
| surmounting the elements--and they weren't always | | | | He told stories about unexplained whistling sounds and |
| successful. Years passed before their efforts could | | | | doors slamming for no reason. Another Coast |
| sufficiently overcome those hardship conditions and | | | | Guardsman toward the end of his duty was also on |
| complete the lighthouse, a massive medieval-looking | | | | this shift. He said: "I didn't believe in those ghosts. I don't |
| structure that towered above the rocks. It was the | | | | think any self-respecting ghost would haunt a |
| most expensive, remote, and dangerous lighthouse | | | | God-forsaken place like that tough station." |
| built--and men died in its operation over the years. | | | | Tyler: That's a great story, Dennis. It makes me want |
| Tyler: What made the operation and construction of | | | | to go there to hunt for ghosts myself. Dennis, so many |
| this lighthouse so dangerous? | | | | of our lighthouses today are in danger of being |
| Dennis: Owing to the ever-present dangers, the | | | | destroyed and their history lost. Why do you feel |
| Light-House Board didn't allow families to live there, as | | | | lighthouses are so important to our history? |
| distinct from nearly every other lighthouse. Located | | | | Dennis: Lighthouses were the sentinels when shipping |
| miles off the coast, supply boats had to bring fresh | | | | was the dominant industry in this country, and this state |
| water, food, supplies, and medical equipment to the | | | | of affairs lasted over centuries into the late twentieth |
| rock, and the only way to land or leave St. George | | | | century. These lonely structures were the last warning, |
| was by a derrick and a stories high, wind-swung ride. | | | | navigational, and shelter outposts for the beleaguered |
| While the seas could be rising or falling as much as | | | | sailors and seamen. They were not only this important |
| fifteen feet, the operator had to hoist small launches | | | | then, but even now these monuments have a |
| by a hook onto the reef or lighthouse. Danger was | | | | particular mystique, romance, and appeal for many of |
| always present. In the early years, keepers died and | | | | us. |
| others became seriously ill. Among the eighty men | | | | Many civic-minded individuals, associations, and groups |
| who served over a forty-year period between 1891 | | | | are working hard to preserve the sentinels that are in |
| and 1930, sixty-seven resigned or transferred to | | | | their area. These structures are a part of the history |
| another station. | | | | of not only this country but also that state and region. I |
| Coast Guardsmen had to land on the reef to physically | | | | dedicated "Sentinel" to "those who protected the |
| remove more than one keeper who suffered a mental | | | | mariners over the years--and who work today to |
| breakdown. Accounts maintain that one or two | | | | keep the history." This is an important work. |
| lookouts simply disappeared after the seas crashed | | | | Tyler: Is the St. George Reef lighthouse open to the |
| over the reef. During one storm, a monstrous | | | | public today? If so, what can visitors expect to find |
| 160-foot-high wave crashed over the lighthouse, totally | | | | there? |
| inundating it and the men inside, pouring ocean inside | | | | Dennis: Owing to its location in uncertain ocean waters |
| while shattering windows in the uppermost lantern | | | | six miles from land, the only way to see this |
| room that was fourteen-stories high above the reef. | | | | wave-washed spit of rock and its lighthouse is by |
| Despite this precarious state of affairs, keepers | | | | helicopter. These flights happen infrequently, but I would |
| returned to live on this station. They preferred this life, | | | | highly recommend them for the adventurous. To fly |
| even to the less isolated sentinels that were on land. | | | | over the ocean to a lighthouse where waves crash |
| Life at lighthouses on the coast was easier, as wickies | | | | thunderously from all sides, land on a forty-foot wide |
| could have their families with them, school their children, | | | | stoned deck, and feel the ocean's power is the |
| raise sheep or cows, have pets, and tend to flower | | | | experience of a lifetime. I flew out to visit St. George |
| and vegetable gardens. The differences in these types | | | | on a clear, sunny, windless day and found the surf |
| of lives are interesting, and I was able to bring this into | | | | surrounding its caisson walls with impressive displays |
| the book. | | | | of spray and sea. See for the details on these |
| Tyler: You mentioned Ballantyne's diary above. Did | | | | helicopter flights. |
| other men at the lighthouse keep diaries or other first | | | | Tyler: What stood out after you finished "Sentinel of |
| person accounts of their experiences? What would a | | | | the Seas"? |
| typical day be like for the men at the lighthouse? | | | | Dennis: The courage of these keepers--and their tales |
| Dennis: I was fortunate in tracking down the | | | | while on this prison-like fortress--were amazing. |
| descendants of the old keepers, as well as | | | | Whether they were painting a railing or coming to the |
| interviewing Coast Guardsmen who served in the | | | | lighthouse by small boat, risks to life and limb lurked |
| 1950's, and their stories are in the book. The days at | | | | when performing the simplest of tasks. As important, |
| St. George were best described by one who said, | | | | the warning fortress on St. George is a testimonial to |
| "We could have days of routine or fun followed by the | | | | the historical times that are so much a part of this |
| sudden appearance of absolute terror." Depending on | | | | country. |
| the weather, the men took shifts working on the | | | | This book is about eras that our grandparents and |
| equipment, maintaining the lighthouse lamp (or light), | | | | even parents lived, knew, and read about. But the lives |
| painting, refurbishing, repairing, and working to keep the | | | | of those who built and lived in that lighthouse inside the |
| sentinel in good order. It was difficult to have a social | | | | Dragon's Rocks--and other sentinels as described in |
| life, as the lighthouse was located miles from land and | | | | the book--were very different. And I still marvel at |
| gales could storm in to cut off any contact with the | | | | these stories. |
| outside world for weeks. Life on this lighthouse was | | | | Tyler: Besides, "Sentinel of the Seas" I know you are |
| very misleading: A keeper could be preoccupied with | | | | the author of "Treasure Ship" and "The Raging Sea." |
| his work, and then suddenly a stories-high rogue wave | | | | Do you have any other projects in the works about |
| could be steaming towards him with only seconds of | | | | the sea? |
| warning. Landing supplies and crews was also a | | | | Dennis: I have a number of works in process, and |
| dangerous undertaking and this required the lowering | | | | these range from salvaging ships at sea to the |
| of boats into a maelstrom of tides and rip currents. | | | | eighteenth-century captains who traveled the seven |
| Men died and were severely injured--or simply | | | | seas. I enjoy the researching and talking about these |
| disappeared during a sudden storm. Despite this, some | | | | subjects as much as the writing. It has become a way |
| keepers stayed for years, preferring the savage | | | | of life for me. As to more information on "Treasure |
| beauty of the sea and this station's isolation. "Sentinel" | | | | Ship" and "The Raging Sea", please see my website, |
| goes into details of these stories, ranging from the | | | | dennispowersbooks.com, for the details. |
| characters that lived there to what they enjoyed in this | | | | Tyler: Where can people find out more about "Sentinel |
| adventurous life at sea. | | | | of the Seas" and how to purchase it? |
| Tyler: What was the research and writing of this book | | | | Dennis: My website (dennispowersbooks.com) has |
| like? | | | | more information on "Sentinel of the Seas", including |
| Dennis: I poured over the Del Norte County Historical | | | | pictures and further particulars. Readers can buy this |
| Society's voluminous files in Northern California about | | | | book at their local independent bookstore, Barnes |
| St. George Reef Lighthouse, including its historical, | | | | & Noble, other chains, Amazon.com, various |
| one-of-a-kind records. The information from Del Norte | | | | websites, kensingtonbooks.com, and other fine places. |
| County was added to the accounts of other historical | | | | Tyler: Thank you for joining me today, Dennis. Your |
| societies and newspapers from Portland, Oregon, to | | | | descriptions of lighthouses, and especially the St. |
| San Francisco and Los Angeles. From the San | | | | George Reef Lighthouse, made me feel as if I were |
| Francisco Maritime Museum and National Archives in | | | | really there experiencing the difficulties and richness of |
| Washington, D.C., to the U.S. Coast Guard Academy | | | | this maritime life. I thoroughly enjoyed our discussion. |